SYNTAGMA. As late as the mid-1800s, Athens was little more than a village. This museum, located in a neo-classical townhouse that was once a royal residence, showcases furniture, clothing, and a city diorama of the mid-19th century. There's also an extensive collection of paintings and sketches, many by Edward Lear of "The Owl and the Pussycat" fame.

KOLONAKI. In 1931, Antoine Benaki presented his family home and collections to Greece, establishing the country's oldest ­ and many say best ­ museum. More than 20,000 works of art chronicle Greece's history from its beginnings to the modern era. High points of the collection are folk art, early Christian textiles, and Bronze Age artifacts from Mycenae and Thessaly. A rooftop cafe serves refreshments. Plan to visit on a Thursday, when the museum is free to all.

SYNTAGMA. This is one of the few European museums dedicated to Byzantine art. Each room in the museum depicts a Greek church and represents a specific period; the displays include an early Christian basilica and a medieval domed church. Most exhibits are of religious art too. There's also an extensive collection of icons, bibles, altars, and mosaics. A word of warning ­ most of the descriptive placards are only in Greek.

PLAKA. Learn about the life of an average Greek citizen from 1650 until modern times. This museum showcases a variety of major handicrafts, including embroidery, weaving, pottery, woodcarving, metalwork, and folk painting. An exhibit of traditional Greek clothing is particularly interesting. In addition, the museum offers educational programs and houses a library.

SYNTAGMA. Cycladic style has had a huge influence on modern artists like Picasso, Modigliani, and Brancusi. This museum displays figurines dating from the third millenium BC, along with vases and bowls from the Classical period in the 5th century BC. The facility is one of the most organized museums in Athens. Lighting is perfect, descriptive placards are printed in Greek and English, and there's a wonderful cafe and gift shop.