GAZI. This spot, located in industrial Gazi, has attracted hipper-than-thou young Athenians since opening in 1999. A partitioned dining room gives the restaurant its name ­ "aristera-dexia" means "left-right" ­ and diners enter via a glass catwalk that looks down on one of Athens' most extensive wine cellars. The cuisine is incredible. The Santorini-born chef favors seafood and imparts traditional recipes with Japanese, Thai, and Italian flavors. Especially good are pheasant sausage with parsnips and madeira sauce, cheese croquettes in melon-mirin-chili sauce, squid in egg-lemon sauce, and crayfish with lavender and sweet wine. Desserts include champagne mousse with strawberries and green peppers and the "chocolate island." Stylish attire. Reservations essential.

OMONIA SQUARE. Greek mezedes are similar to Spanish tapas ­ savory appetizers ordered in combination to make a meal. This spot has specialized in them since its inception in 1932 and is a favorite lunch and dinner haunt with local lawyers who work in the courts near Omonia Square. Sample grilled squid or hearty loukanika (sausages), along with patsanga (spicy meat wrapped in phyllo and served with cheese and tomatoes). Vegetarians enjoy fresh salads and authentic "giant beans." No reservations or credit cards accepted. Casual attire.

OMONIA SQUARE. Ideal specializes in Greek comfort food, just like Grandma used to make. The house specialty is silky avgolemono soup; other popular dishes include stuffed peppers, leek croquettes, and lamb with spinach. For something really memorable, try Smyrnaika tsouotsoukakia, which flavors spicy meat patties with ouzo and cumin. The oldest restaurant in downtown Athens, Ideal offers hip Art Deco décor and excellent service, which keep regulars coming back. Lunch is busy and crowded with local businessmen; if you prefer relaxed dining, dinner is a better bet. Smart-casual attire. Reservations suggested.

KOLONAKI. This spot is one of the most popular eateries in fashionable Kolonaki, so don't be fooled by the name ­ it's a bistro, not a coffee shop! Dark wood walls and candlelight make it an especially good spot for a romantic dinner. House favorites include marinated octopus, onion pie with dill, and artichokes la polita. Vegetarians relish stuffed squash and fried eggplant. House wines are excellent too, so be sure to savor a glass with your meal. Reservations suggested. Smart-casual to trendy attire.

PLAKA. This jubilant spot can be a bit touristy, but it's all in good fun. Diners are treated to authentic folk dances and songs, which perfectly complement traditional Mediterranean cuisine. Stuffed grape leaves, fried eggplant, and lamb dishes are tasty choices, as is grilled octopus. The restaurant is located in the Plaka district at the foot of the Acropolis, which contributes to the old-world atmosphere. Smart-casual attire. Reservations essential.